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Old 04-18-2006
Wyatt Earp's Avatar
Wyatt Earp Wyatt Earp is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nanaimo, BC Canada
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Default How (Not) to install a set of gauges - Part 2 - BIG PICTURES WARNING!!

I used the chase between the frame and the fuse panel to access the A Pillar. This was a bit tight be it worked none the less. I then mounted the Pyrometer Amplifier to the frame at the knee bolster under the steering wheel. I strapped it on the top and drilled it on the bottom (no shown) it is not going anywhere.

I then drilled the fire wall with the applicable size of bit. I used rubber grommets for the 2 tubing lines so they would be chafe on the wall. The lines for the Pyrometer where placed through the wall and have yet to gummed up with putty as seen with the other lines.

I then removed the bolt that is at the head of the chamber nearest to the first injector. I replaced this with the Boost Bolt as provided to Arrowsmith Diesel Performance by Piers Diesel Research (thanks guys!). This means no more drilled the air horn. Easy. I torqued it to 22 foot-pounds.

Next, I ran the line from the fire wall to the this bolt as seen here:

The hardest part the entire project was tapping the exhaust manifold. It was partly because I didn’t have the correct sized tap and next because of the position as I elected to not remove the turbo or the manifold and to do this “in place”.

Seen here is the finished position. I began by locating the spot as indicated by Pier Diesel Research’s website and by MaxTorque. I drilled the small pilot hole, cleaned it out, drilled another larger hole, cleaned it out and each time the bit was coated in white grease to prevent any shavings from falling inside the manifold. I then proceeded to locate my tap – I didn’t have one large enough and there was a large slap on the forehead, some words I cannot repeat were spoken and I called Lordco to see if they had the right size in stock. They did so, I borrowed a friend’s car and off to the parts store I went. I purchased the ¼ tap and 2 small packages of body clips since I already used up the ones that came with the pod.

All in all the project was a success but I would warn the first timer to plan ahead, have a knowledgeable friend on speed dial and to ensure you have all the correct tools, taps, zap straps and permatex within ease of reach. Not doing so will drastically slow down your progress and will effect the overall level of enjoyment as well.

Now about that wire: It is very important to connect this to the dimmer switch as when driving at night I found it quite uncomfortable with the lights of the gauges right there.

I must appologize for the formatting. It seems things look much different after they are posted.

Wyatt Earp
2012 3500 Laramie, LWB, Crew Cab, SRW, 4x4, 6.7L Oil Burner, 3:73 gears, Auto, S&B Air Intake, 35" Goodyear All Weather Tread, 2" Carrier Spring lvl kit with FOX Shocks, BD Adjustable Track Bar, DSS Stabilizer, Serviceable ball joints and tie rod ends, FLOPRO Exhaust, RACEME, Bright Source HID, Colour Match Canopy, VHF Radio and Cell Booster Cradle, AMP Bumper Step.
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