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Old 04-17-2011
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MarcusM MarcusM is offline
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Default Wvo how to set up 12v

My partner recently bought a 1985 mercedes 300 d and it runs on straight wvo only thing thats different is an inline filter has been moved to accomadate easy changing what has to be done for our 12v. I have access to used veggie oil and he will teach me how to filter but always listen for suggestions.
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Old 04-20-2011
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I kept the used oil from the cafe in a plastic container that was almost clear for a few days. The fries,cooks cigar butts,etc would sink and the water would settle out in the lower part. You can see the water /oil separation layer. Take an elcheapo plastic siphon hose and squeeze bulb kit from Wally world and lower the intake end to about 2" above the water layer.Use something [clothes pin,wire] to keep this end up out of the water while it siphons. I bought 10 micron filterbags off Ebay,fitted them over a 3 or 4" ID piece of PVC. Stuck that onto a big funnel.
Siphon oil off the water and pass down through filterbag section in pvc pipe into clean container. Mix this with diesel with an eye on what air temps are going to be . If temps are staying up above 50F all night I used 60% WVO and never worried.
REMEMBER !! WVO acts as a solvent and will clean out the crud in your trucks system and carry it to the filters . Filters will clog up {their job,right?} .So be ready to change them until the crud is gone. Usually once or twice. Carry spares and know how to change them on the side of the road !! Drain that water separator every week!!Them its smooth and quieter and cheaper sailing!
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Old 04-20-2011
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Sounds about right. You can add 5% gasoline or ethanol for better cold starts, but once the engine is warm it doesn't matter.

A prefilter is a VERY GOOD IDEA !! Bamacat knows some good ones
or you can even use a $3 walleyworld inline plastic one. You can even get a 50 micron inline just for diesel for about $10.

If you plan to burn large amounts you can put it in 55 gallon drums and settle it.
I pump mine out by screwing a 3/4 hose bib (water faucet) into the small hole with a piece of 1/2 inch pvc glued into the bottom that is about 2-3 inches short of reaching the bottom. Then drill a 1/2 inch hole in the large plug and slip a tubeless tire valvestem into it. When you pressurize the top of the drum with a compressor "(to no more than 5psi)" the air pressure pushes down on the oil and the only place it can go is out the faucet.

The filter bags are a very good idea, though I've never used them. I wrap a piece of old bed sheet around the end of the hose attached to the faucet. Been working really great since I started that.
I assure you, if it's not right it WON'T go through the sheet!

The 12 valve engine is ready for it, just have to filter and pour, and beware of the smell, it will make you hungry, and everyone else around.
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Old 04-28-2011
Biodieseler Biodieseler is offline
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Are you planning to modify your fuel system in the truck more than adding a filter?
I agree, the 12 valve CTD is a great engine to run on vegetable oil, but it's still prone to problems if you don't heat the vegetable oil before it gets to the injection pump/injectors.

I'm in the midst of modifying my 1998 12 valve to run on SVO (WVO actually) but will not put veg oil into the diesel tank. I know lots of people run a blend of veg oil and diesel and go a loong long time with no problems, so maybe you can do the same, but I really belieive if you want the more reliable system that will last longer, get a 2 tank system and get the vegetable oil up to 160* F minimum (prefferably 180 F) and switch back do diesel when you shut down so you don't start up again on cold veg oil.

Even if you don't want the 2 tank system, adding a simple heat exchanger into your fuel system is really beneficial, just to get the fuel mix warmed up.

Cheers.
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1998, quad cab, 12 valve, 4x4, auto converted to 5 speed, engine out of a 98 freightliner truck (still 12 valve 5.9L CTD) pacbrake exhaust brake, Runs on waste vegetable oil.
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Old 04-28-2011
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I don't have any plans to modify the fuel system. As long as I follow the recipe it works very well. I sometimes even get stingy with the additives in summer.

Yes, the oil does work better when warm, but the VP44 does not so it's a compromise I guess.
I have actualy considered adding a fuel cooler to keep the vp temps lower. The "P" pump on the other hand probably doesn't mind the heat as much. I thought I had read somewhere around 140 deg, but I could be wrong.

A heating system would work great for longer trips, but my 15 miles to work wouldn't even warm the tank. I have wondered about a small mass heater, basically heating the fuel line instead of the tank, but coolant temp still has to come up first. I even considered fitting a small tank, 5 gal or so for DIESEL to start on and using the main tank for oil.
I can tell you from experience that 5 minutes makes quite a difference in how the engine burns WVO. By the time I drive through town (small town) it's ready to go.

Overall, the cheapest thing to modify is the oil, by adding a little more diesel or ethanol, and it works fine
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Old 04-28-2011
Biodieseler Biodieseler is offline
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Smokediver: I didn't notice in your case you are running a 24 valve. In that case you're probably right, and I would do the same if I wanted to run veg. oil. I would not heat the fuel going into a VP44 or you're asking for troubles. Good to hear that you're having good luck with running veg oil through a 24 valve. I run biodiesel in my '99 but have not dared to run SVO simply because of the VP44 issues. Now I won't have to worry once I get my new '98 12 valve on the road. It'll be on SVO for sure.
My above post was directed towards MarcusM who's running a 95 12 valve according to his signature.
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1998, quad cab, 12 valve, 4x4, auto converted to 5 speed, engine out of a 98 freightliner truck (still 12 valve 5.9L CTD) pacbrake exhaust brake, Runs on waste vegetable oil.
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Old 04-28-2011
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klmahnke klmahnke is offline
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Can a guy use waste engine oil. If so, what kind of filtering does one need to do and what blend would be best. I have a 12 valve and everyone seems to want to give me their waste engine oil these days.
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Old 04-28-2011
Biodieseler Biodieseler is offline
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I'm no expert on using waste engine oil, but I know it's been done by some of the folks on this forum. do a search here and you'll find some info to get you started, and should notice who has been doing it and maybe you can get more info from them.

I will say that I have this concern about any fuel - that the viscosity be as close as possible to that of diesel fuel. So all the mentioning of heating the fuel system, or thinning by additives or the like are all striving to acheive one major objective, and that is to get the viscosity of the fuel you are using as close as possible to that of diesel fuel, so that the injectors and injection pump, etc can push the fuel through with the same flow characteristics and not hurt anything. If you run too thick of a fuel through the engine, that is one of the main things that cause coking of the injectors/cylinders, etc. because the fuel doesn't get atomized as well or burned as well as it should be and some other problems can stem from there. not to mention the added strain on the fuel lift pump and I don't know if the way the injectors "pop" gets effected by heavier/thicker fuel, but it's best to try to match the fuel viscosity to that of diesel.

So I would think you likely can run waste engine oil, but make sure it's filtered at least as well as you would want your diesel fuel to be filtered, and maybe take a sample of your fuel/waste oil mix and compare it somehow to regular diesel fuel and see if it is much thicker. If you find at a certain temperature and a certain blend gets too thick, reduce the blend of the heavier part of your fuel mix. Whether it applies to vegetable oil, or motor oil.

good luck
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1999 Ram 2500 4X4, DTT trans & TC, Smarty, 150/95 FASS, 100 HP Maxsticks, Snow performance stage 2 water/methanol injection, DSS steering stabilizer bar, Lukes Links, Cold air intake, Silencer ring MIA. 4" turbo back exhaust split to duals half way back, 6" lift, lots of gauges

1998, quad cab, 12 valve, 4x4, auto converted to 5 speed, engine out of a 98 freightliner truck (still 12 valve 5.9L CTD) pacbrake exhaust brake, Runs on waste vegetable oil.
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Old 04-28-2011
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Hey smoke Feel like Deja Vue?

I believe you are correct with 140* if your goal is to get out the water. That is the number I keep reading.
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Old 04-28-2011
Biodieseler Biodieseler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunslinger View Post
Hey smoke Feel like Deja Vue?

I believe you are correct with 140* if your goal is to get out the water. That is the number I keep reading.
Are we talking about getting the water out, or ideal temperature to have the oil when it hits the injection pump/injectors? It's been a while since I researched this, but 71* C or 160*F is the target temp for running SVO. I like to get it up to 170 or above personally, but I can be too picky about some things like that.. lol
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1999 Ram 2500 4X4, DTT trans & TC, Smarty, 150/95 FASS, 100 HP Maxsticks, Snow performance stage 2 water/methanol injection, DSS steering stabilizer bar, Lukes Links, Cold air intake, Silencer ring MIA. 4" turbo back exhaust split to duals half way back, 6" lift, lots of gauges

1998, quad cab, 12 valve, 4x4, auto converted to 5 speed, engine out of a 98 freightliner truck (still 12 valve 5.9L CTD) pacbrake exhaust brake, Runs on waste vegetable oil.
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